Altec Sickness

[oface1]

Nah,

It is not me, I emailed him and he never got back to me, but might have over-inundated with emails on sales, like I am ATM....


Well good luck with your project...


-chris

[Old Guy]

Just to expand on what Bfish said, yes you have PA versions, if both drivers are the same depth, most likely both 808.

The "Symbiotik" has a Mylar suspension rather than aluminum, (the brown ring around the dome).

Doesn't fatigue and break as badly, but has less HF.

You also have MI "woofers" which are really full range, not woofs, so a little less deep bottom.

Made to be loud in the voice range.

The LF won't be an issue if you use a sub.

On the HF, didn't see the loading caps- if they have been removed need to felt line the driver caps. Search the board, has been discussed in great detail. The removal of the caps improves HF, all aluminum frams still more. There is a market for used Symbiotiks on FeePay should you go that route. If you re-fram, have GP do it, last ones I sent they recharged the mags at no cost.

The hole was for the HF wires from the xover to come out, often the horn was on top rather than in the port. I always sealed around the wires with RTV, Or just mount a jack plate over it so the HF can be plugged in the jack.

Nice cabs BTW. Good score.

[just me now]

sweet.....

have fun!

[ClassicComics]

Thanks for the info guys!!

I am going to use these as is for now and upgrade down the line. They basically match the speakers I have now, which have 421a woofers, n809-8a dividing network and 511b horns with 807-8a drivers (although I have never opened my HF drivers on those to verify - I will soon).... so my plan is to use one of these newly aquired speakers as my center channel in my theater and the ones I have for my front two channels. Down the line I am going to swap out the diaphrams in the 808-8a's. Since I have sub woofers already in my theater, I think I will probably be good with the 421a's for a good while.

Since I now have four 511b horns with two 807-8a and two 808-8a drivers, and I only need to be running 3 front speakers at any given time (though I am keeping the other for spare parts and so I always have pairs of speakers)... would there be a preference for which HF drivers to use on the left and right speaker vs the center channel?

Also, can the 807-8a's be upgraded like the 808's can? And are there pictures somewhere on-line of the different diaphrams and the loading caps? This is the 1st time I have opened up a set of drivers so I have no idea what I am looking for/at. I searched a bit on here last night for upgrade info, but couldn't really find exactly the info I was looking for and pictures always make it MUCH easier....

I actually also still have the other single I purchased with the EV speaker in it as well... maybe I should build that one and use two of these as my rear channels as well.... I'd only have to cut two big holes in the back of the theater wall and put them in the gym area... I'm sure my wife wouldn't complain too much.

Thanks!!

<font color="#FFFFFF" size="1">[ September 14, 2008 11:44 PM: Message edited by: ClassicComics ]</font>

[GM]

Originally posted by ClassicComics:

... would there be a preference for which HF drivers to use on the left and right speaker vs the center channel?

Also, can the 807-8a's be upgraded like the 808's can? And are there pictures somewhere on-line of the different diaphrams and the loading caps? This is the 1st time I have opened up a set of drivers so I have no idea what I am looking for/at.

<font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">802-808 = large motor

806-807 = small motor, ergo lower efficiency, less HF extension, so more EQ required to keep up with the 802-808.

All accept the same diaphragms and for best results all should be the same motor size at least for the L/C/R channels.

http://www.greatplainsaudio.com/SmDrvrDiaRpl.pdf shows a loading cap and the all alum. diaphragm that's generally considered the best HIFI performer.

GM

[ClassicComics]

I will have to try and get another 808 driver so I can have 3 across, I'll start keeping an eye on ebay for a single. In the mean time do you think I should use an 808 on the center speaker and then the 807's on the left and right or the 808's on the left and right and an 807 on the center? Or should I mix and match and put an 808 on the center and one the left channel for example and then have the right channel with an 807?

If I come across an 808 driver what would be a fair price to pay?

Also, the felt disk, are most people making those themselves and if so out of what material specifically. Or I assume you can order them by themselves from GPA?

Also OG mentioned having GPA re-fram my drivers, what does that involve exactly? I thought I read that swapping out the diaphragms was a fairly easy DIY deal.... also, I saw some aluminum replacement diaphrams on ebay for $30, are they worth buying or are they of a lesser quality then the ones from GPA. I actually don't know how much they cost from GPA, couldn't find prices on their site and haven't had a chance to call them yet.


THANKS !!!

[GM]

You're welcome!

I'd use an 808 in the CC since it's the dialog channel, so can't have too much efficiency for clarity and to lower the noise floor. L/R are technically surrounds for panning and effects, but they do contain some dialog, so they should at least be the same if they can't match the CC.

I don't keep up with pricing, so others will have to chime in. I just know you wouldn't get mine cheap.

Yeah, I can't imagine you not being able to buy the felt disc and shorter screws as a kit from GPA or you can buy them locally and cut your own disc from an 1/8 in. thick piece from an arts n' crafts or fabric store.

They clean out the VC gap, re-zap the magnet and install a new diaphragm and convert the terminals to spade if yours had the old screw connector diaphragms. You can DIY everything except the re-zapping, which all these being road weary AlNiCo is a must-do IMO, so might as well let them do it all. Anyway, it's all spelled out in the pdf I linked.

I know Radian offers a replacement (or at least use to) and while generally durable, it's thicker than the high SQ, more HF extended 23744 (or whatever replaced it) that GPA offers. As always, Caveat Emptor applies when buying aftermarket bargains.

GM

<font color="#FFFFFF" size="1">[ September 16, 2008 12:44 AM: Message edited by: GM ]</font>